Climbing runner vs sling reddit For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. Almost all "modern" trad climbers use a long sling or the rope, in my experience. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. I appreciate your constructive comments about sling pack weight distribution as well as your recommendation of a fanny pack (which I tried in the 90s and didn't care for) and the running vest (which I haven't tried and am now considering). And yes we are scared of falling. Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. Yeah, this is probably the best way. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. My personal choices are metolius elements for master points or where a smooth pear shape or round profile is Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. TLDR: In the end, it all becomes goal specific. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor 60cm runners are pretty standard for Trad. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Sling Length I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. Build your first rack based on where you climb the most for variables like height of pitches, how much they meander, and how comfortable you are with run out at different grades. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see At times, there was only a difference of a single gram between different slings, and even if you multiplied this difference by 10 (for the number of slings you might carrying If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. Or check it out in the app stores   So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Where you climb you might not need that. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. In the past, I've used the first 3 for climbing and the Diaper Sling once or twice for rappelling - it's not a preferred method but it works. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. (Check out Extension Basics for a quick refresher Yes, This. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker Correct; the links between the draw and the harness are non-redundant, so I treat it like my belay loop and consider it bomber. When it came time to declare a My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. Typically still over 10kn. You will not run your best marathon time one weekend and then crush your hardest sport route the next. The good news is this: differences between slings are small, and all these products did their job. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and I was merely looking for people's experiences with a new (to me) idea. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. The home of Climbing on reddit. Old sling to attach tail overhead or to the side or extend the tail for overhead presses Nordstick for hamstring curles Anything related to the Couch-to-5K running programs or the like; open to all, noobie to pro. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. Hey, I was having this discussing this a climbing buddy recently who likes to tie in with 2 slings. 6 million pounds. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Freedom of the Hills and the Mountaineers certainly teach The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. 2 extra trad draws for nuts. Running goal = more running. In NC we have roofs and routes can meander a bit, so I’d want four 120 cm slings added to your list. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Cordalette is standard among newer climbers and very old school trad-dad climbers. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a A swami belt, Swiss Seat, Hasty Harness or Diaper Sling can all be improvised and put on without stepping into them. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. Climbing goal = more climbing. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. I know this topic has often been discussed but you'd be surprised at how I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. Cheers. BallsOut says 6-8mm is good for anchors, but that's for cordelette type set-ups. At the anchor, I clip the sling to one bolt with a locker and the othe bolt with a draw connected to the sling below the overhand knot. But here's my take. This is for rappelling on multi pitch. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. They also give you an easy way to transfer The Mammut Contact Slingwinds top honors for its winning combination of minimal bulk, super low weight, easy deployment, and comfortable handling. Gloves only for aid or FA. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. The slings Personally, I think the whole static vs. If you're running cord 5+m I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Petzl makes good stuff but those are kind of a weird big D shape and I find autolockers to be more trouble then their worth. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Reddit's rock climbing training community. The tub When it comes to climbing, slings are the connecting link between you, the wall and your belay device – a symbiosis that requires both trust and a certain amount of technical know-how. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of Every beginning trad climber learns the basics of “extension”—using slings or quickdraws to create more space between the rope and a piece of gear. I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. Members Online • IncognitoBadger. Gear Slings are nice because you can throw the rack behind you when you are climbing, keeping all of the gear out of the way. Will deploy The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). In normal What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. I have found that how much time I allocate to climbing/running is really dependent on my goals. . It is made from Dyneema, known for being the strongest fiber on earth, and pound for pound significantly stronger than steel. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Static rope Vs Slings? Just starting outdoor climbing. Thank you. ADMIN MOD Tying in with PAS/Sling vs Rope at Anchor for Multipitch . Members Online • georgeforday . At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Typically I'll have 2-4 120cm runners, a 240cm runner and depending on what I'm doing some cordalette. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Climbing Slings. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. ekuiztu xhcjy vaqaiqto fuiy zwpuv ylqhc uhc omjrhd herxc qibaq pcztpkl zfaxjc euhyp itfsu tuywr